Monday, December 27, 2010

Christmas Spirit

It’s been quite a few years since I have been away from my family on Christmas and I was bummed about it most of last week. It made me think a lot about the Christmas spirit, why I love the holiday so much and what it meant to me to be away from family.

For as long as I can remember, I have always loved Christmas and as a non-Christian, I’ve loved it for reasons other than celebrating the birth of Christ. To me, it feels like one of the few times when the world (and by that, I now mean, the western world) stops for a day or two and I can simply enjoy my family, stuff my face with yummy foods and be altogether lazy.

Some of fondest memories of Christmas take me back to being a kid growing up in the middle of nowhere PA. Even at a time when, my family didn’t have much money, and my brother and I received one gift from Santa, and the rest at the after Christmas sales, I remember gathering at my uncle’s on Christmas morning to exchange gifts with my cousins. All of us sitting in a circle, opening our gifts one at a time and oohing and awwing at each other’s gifts. It was the time spent with family that mattered most.

After that, one of my favorite Christmas season’s was my senior year in college – when my roommates and I got a real Christmas tree for our house – my first real tree ever. I loved it! We also went all out that year – buying each other stocking stuffers, loads of candies and small gifts. My family had always done Christmas decorations on a small scale – that year, we went all out. And after that year, I’ve never been happy with a fake Christmas tree.

As I became an “adult” in corporate America, I remember being focused on spending a lot of time in the kitchen – cooking all kinds of new dishes – in a sense to prove that I could be both the working girl and a good wife. It was always a terribly busy time for a corporate associate, but I remember being home and cooking a nice spread. Creating a sense of hearth and home.

In recent years, I have wanted to create new traditions with my family, which includes tree trimming and Christmas cookie baking with my brother and sister in law. With them getting the sap on their hands when putting up the lights (I hate that part, and they are really good at it) in exchange for whatever kinds of cookies they wanted. It’s been really fun having an extra weekend with them to celebrate the holidays.

This year, I definitely felt that gap of spending various parts of the season with them and with friends. Enjoying my traditions.

That’s not to say that I didn’t enjoy my Christmas this year. In fact, it was a lovely weekend – just different.

On Friday, our team at work surprised us with Christmas gifts and we sang carols together in the office. One of my friends from work invited a bunch of us mentor lawyers to his place in New Delhi for dinner. The bubbly was flowing and we all really enjoyed spending time together outside of the office and not talking about work. Saturday, S and I went to the Crown Marriott in Gurgaon for brunch, joining some Australian friends. It was a gorgeous all you can eat, all you can drink buffet. Later, since I couldn’t be in Baltimore, S and I spent the evening watching the Wire. Sunday, S and I met another friend from the office at the Delhi Golf Course – limited to 3000 members – a veritable who’s who of the Delhi elite. It was a great place to people watch – and see peacocks. 4 females and a male dancing with his feathers open to attract them – I’m told it’s good luck. While I won’t turn away from good luck, I know I am already so blessed to be far from home and still be able to enjoy Christmas – making new friends and new memories.

I hope you all had a wonderful holiday and enjoyed it with your own particular traditions.

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

The flip side

I've talked a bit about the benefits of being an expat in India. Well, here's one of the down sides. Being sick in a foreign country while on your own kinda sucks.

Last Friday, I had the chills and my body ached. I couldn't imagine what was wrong, but instead of going out with the girls, I went to bed early. I woke up Saturday with stomach issues. Now being in India, I have had and have come to expect that from time to time you will get Delhi belly. It's pretty much a given. But I knew right away this was different. After a couple of hours, I decided it was time to get a medical opinion. Unfortunately, my family doc, my sister in law - was not available for a trans-contintental consultation.

So I called my insurance company. Yes, some things never change. Once I figured out what hospitals where participants, off I went. I have visited doctors in India before, but mostly friends of the family. This time I just went to a hospital. I walked to the receptionist and they registered me and made me an appointment immediately with a gastroenterologist - no need to see a general practitioner first. And, as soon as I paid, I could go see him. And the price, just 500 rupees.

I saw the doctor and he prescribed some antibiotics and other meds. As I went to the pharmacy, I felt myself getting lightheaded and had to sit for a few minutes. Now, I tend to think of myself as a pretty independent gal, but at that moment, I would have loved to have had someone there with me - just to hold my hand or keep me from fainting. Since that wasn't an option, I powered through.

I finally made it home and did nothing but sleep for the next two days. Ugh. I can't remember when I have ever felt so poorly. I made it to work for a bit on Monday - mostly because I was sick of my bed at that point and went back to the doctor yesterday to find out what was wrong.

Based on my symptoms (as described via email), my sister in law concluded that I had dysentery - oooh, well, that sound awful and third worldly. However, it turns out I have e-coli. I have no idea what strand, but whatever strand it is, it makes you want to do nothing but sleep and makes you feel just overall unwell.

I'm on the mend now - and hopefully will be fully recovered by Christmas. The thing about being ill is that even at home it isolates you - and here, where I am already isolated from loved ones, it is even more isolating. and while I don't normally see myself as a whiner when I'm ill, getting sick this close to the holidays, without loved ones just really sucked. Thanks for letting me whine.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

A few of my favorite things...

I'm sitting in the Continental Lounge and I can't believe it is already time to head back to India. This week feels like it has flown by and actually seems a bit surreal. It was not nearly enough time to see everyone I wanted to see and spend time with but I'm grateful for the time I had and that I did get to see or talk to so many of my friends. Also, a big thank you to those of you who let me stay with you or offered me a place to stay in Baltimore - it is really weird not having my place to go home to at the end of the day.

A few people have asked me what I miss the most while away. When I first left, I had no idea what I would find, wouldn't find and what I would miss. While I can find almost everything in India (at a price, of course) here's a list of a few of my favorite things that I will miss most.

First, and foremost is my niece, Seva. She has grown so much in the last three months and just has the most amazing smile. Her whole face lights up and each and every time I see it, it captures my heart. So while I do get to visit with her on skype, it is no comparison to seeing her face light up when I say Good Morning to her.

Next are my family and peeps. I cannot tell you how much I miss being able to meet up for a glass of wine or a bite, share some friendly gossip, complain about work and just hear about all of the wonderful day to day things that are happening. The time difference between India and the US of 10.5 hours (yes, there is a 1/2 hour in there - that's just India) makes it tough for me to really talk to people during the week, so I'm lucky if I can catch up with anyone by phone. I'm always happy to wake up to a new email and hear what's been happening. Even if it is just that you had a crappy day at work.

Other than those things - the things I miss the most in no particular order are:

1. Long Hot Showers - I totally miss being able to lounge in the shower knowing that the hot water is going to run out for a long time. Now, I will go back to timing my showers to five minutes or less. I guess it's a good thing I cut 10 inches off my hair, who knows how much time that will save me in the shower.

2. Orange juice - the funny thing is that I don't drink OJ a lot, but now that I can't find it - well, there's stuff that is passed off as orange juice, but it doesn't even taste like the stuff from concentrate - I find that I crave it all the more.

3. Good wine at decent prices - as many of you know, I enjoy a good glass of wine (or two), however, in India, the local wines (of which there are only two vintners - Grover and Sula) are not great (ok, they are barely drinkable) and I guess I've become enough of a wine snob over the years, that I can't really drink bad wine, and I have a really hard time spending $50 for a bottle of so so wine - so I'm "stuck" drinking vodka. or beer.

4. Sandwiches - I was at Mount Washington Tavern this week, just a normal everyday bar/restaurant, and I wanted to order about a dozen of their sandwiches - burgers, cuban sandwiches, roast beef, philly cheesesteaks (which I normally will only eat at McGerk's or Pat's), turkey subs. I could go on, but my mouth is watering.

5. Salads - I miss lettuce. Enough said.

6. Safe drinking water - I am always on alert and have to ask the bartender if the ice cubes in my drink are made from filtered water. Alcohol unfortunately does not kill everything.

7. Snow and the holiday season - I'm really going to miss seeing snow out my window - I hope you have a snowy white Christmas and post lots of pictures for me to see. This is one of my favorite seasons and while I did make some lasagna, scones and cookies while I was here - I will miss having the big Xmas dinner with the family and presents under the tree.

8. I would miss coffee - but I have packed 8 pounds of it in my bag (along with two bottles of sugar free flavored syrup) - there are certain things you just shouldn't live without.

9. Driving - I really do miss the freedom of driving myself around.

10. Cheese - we eat so many different types of it - most Indians eat only paneer. Can you imagine a life without mozzarella and provolone? What about whiz?

So, I guess that's my top ten. What do you miss most when you are away from home.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Hinglish

My mind is befuddled. This year alone, I have spoken English, French (sort of), Gujurati (the language of the State in India my family is from), Hindi (again sort of), UK English (it is its own language) and now I am learning Hinglish.

What is Hinglish? It is the Indian English based on the language of the Britishers and a some words and phrases that are simply, made up... Here's a bit of a primer.

1. You do not live in India or Delhi, you stay there. And you don't just say, I stay in Delhi, you would say, I stay in Delhi only.

2. Only gets added to the end of many phrases, as in - I must finish this project only. It doesn't mean you only have one project to finish, just that you are finishing a project.

3. Shifting - you don't move, you shift, as in - I am shifting flats from Gurgaon to Delhi. I'm not moving my desk across the room, but I am shifting desks.

4. Prepone - we are familiar with the word postpone, this is its opposite. As in, I set a meeting for 3 pm but I must prepone it to 2 pm. (Honestly, I didn't realize we were lacking in a word for this, but it is kind of catchy)

5. Babudum - I'm not sure of the spelling, or if this is yet really in a dictionary of sorts - but in common use - it means bureaucracy - There was so much babudum involved in the Commonweath Games that everything is behind schedule.

6. Unless and until - this phrase is a favorite of the lawyers I work with. I'll ask, when will you be finished with the project? I should have it finished at 1, probably, unless and until something else happens. Even for a lawyer the lack of a straight answer (which I have in the past been wrongly accused of never giving) is frustrating - so, unless something happens you'll maybe, probably finish the project on time. Sigh.

7. Till - UGH - a major pet peeve of mine. As I've explained to the lawyers - till means to till the soil, It does not mean, until, or for, or of or any other preposition you want to substitute it for.

8. Mail - as a substitute for email - another pet peeve - Mail is snail mail, not email. I don't even care if you use the hyphen between the e and mail.

As you can see from this primer - there is much reason my brain (which seems to have stayed a bit blond in India) is quite befuddled.

For those of you who are familiar with Hinglish - please feel free to add to the list.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Some scary news

Every now and then I'm reminded that where I've moved is not as safe as I was (despite the Wire and the murder rates in Baltimore). Yesterday I received an email from the State Department that stated the following:

According to press reports and local police authorities an explosion occurred in Varanasi at the Dashashwamedh Ghat near the Vishwanath Temple at around 6:30 this evening. Media reports indicate 20-25 people were injured including a number of foreigners with one fatality. Police are on high alert across India. At this time, the motive for the attack is not known.

Varanasi is a very well known tourist destination and in fact my friends were there this past weekend. Thankfully before the attack.

As close to home, so to speak was a gang rape that was widely reported in the Delhi papers. A young lady who works for an outsourcing organization was gang raped after she was dropped off after work.

The way that most outsourcing organizations, including mine, operate is that the employees are provided with a group taxi service that picks them up for work and drops them off afterwards. In some instances you are dropped off at your front door, in others, at some distance from there. This particular young lady was dropped off about 100m from her home. Apparently the men had learned her schedule and had been watching her for some time. They kidnapped her from the drop site, drove her away in a van and raped her. Luckily she has survived and is fighting back.

These things don't happen often but they do happen. Vigilance is necessary so now, if any of our female lawyers need to stay late to get a deliverable out, first we need to discourage it, if we there is no other alternative we stay with them until they are finished, we put them in the cab to go home, they have to have someone receive them at their destination (most of the women do not live alone so this hasn't been an issue so far), they are dropped off at their front door and they must call us when they arrive.

One of the lawyers in my group remarked that sometimes it is as though if you are a young woman and you are out by yourself at night, it is like an invitation to be harassed. There's a lot wrong with that. Not only does it feel like it blames the woman, but it restricts her freedom. Not to mention her safety. In a way, it can also act to restrict her ability to get ahead. If you are prohibited from staying late at work, does this mean you get less difficult projects?

While safety issues are paramount and trump all else, how do you balance the other interests and freedoms that are being impinged upon?

How the Other Half Lives

In India, I'm actually part of that other half. What exactly does that mean? I'm getting super spoiled living there. First, as I think I've mentioned before, I have my own car and driver. Someone who is there for me to call on every day to take me to the gym, the grocery, out to Delhi etc.

I have to say, it is a blessing since I couldn't drive in India, but it is a strange. So now, if I ask him to come at 7am so I can go to the gym, I ask him the night before and that means that if I actually don't feel like going the next morning, I have to fight my guilt that it took him an hour to get to me and my desire to stay in bed. Guilt usually wins. It does take a bit of planning and knowing what you are doing the following day, but I never have to worry about driving home after a few drinks!

My driver, Madan, is really great - and he loves my dog. As you know, I found Jai a daycare to go to during the week. So Jai comes with me in the car as I get driven to the gym or work (if I go to the gym, he stays with Madan) and then Madan drives him to the farm - and stays and plays with him - before he drives him home for his afternoon nap. Madan and Jai get along really well - to the point that Madan has told me that Jai is his best friend. (Pause for, awww). Jai may rebel against coming back to the US, but we'll have that chat in a year.

While I'm at work a housekeeper cleans my flat (apartment) every day other than Sunday. That means, the bathrooms, the floors, dusting, and the kitchen - including any dishes that I may have left. I haven't done dishes in 3 months! My only chore is to do my own laundry. And if I have drycleaning, I leave it in the flat in a bag - it gets picked up and dropped off. As for ironing, there's a presswalla in one of the buildings in my apartment complex who irons each item for no more than 3 INR - which is the equivalent of $.07 per item. And if I bring him some items on a Saturday, they are finished in a couple of hours.

While I do go to the grocery store about once a week - I could just place an order and have it all delivered (at no additional cost). In fact, as I mentioned in one of my first posts - just about everyone delivers - including the wine store, the baker (we finally found this amazing french bakery which real croissants and baguettes!), and restaurants of all sorts.

Ok, yes, I do have to feed myself if I don't order out - which I surprisingly don't d2. I suppose I could hire a part-time cook - at a cost of no more than 3000 INR per month or about $45, but it seems a bit much, don't you think? Besides, since my office provides us with lunch, most days I don't want much more than a light dinner. But since I've been dreading the office lunches lately, maybe I should consider this...

Of course, I need to be done in time for my bi-weekly yoga class - where our yoga instructor comes to our flat to provide 3 on 1 instruction. I'm wondering if I can just ask her to do the yoga for me :)

It's amazing how much free time this provides you and while I am tired after a hard days work - I kind of miss doing some of these things for myself. Not cleaning the bathrooms though.

Land of the Peeing Man

My friends have I have taken to calling India "the Land of the Peeing Man" especially when we see things that just don't seem to make a lot of sense.

Those of you who have been to India know exactly what I am talking about. For example, on my 20 minute ride to work everyday, I see no less than 5-7 men peeing on the side of the road. Every day. I was (and am) perplexed by this phenomenon. At first you think, well, maybe there aren't enough toilets, but I never see a woman squatting to pee on the side of the road.

So, I decided a couple of weeks ago to pose the question to my eldest cousin who was visiting me. First off, it seems that he doesn't see it as any big deal (and probably takes advantage of this from time to time). He believes that the reason is that there are not enough public restrooms. To which, I remarked, first, why not just hold it (seriously, can you not hold it for an extra hour or so until you find a restroom?) and two, if that's the case, why do I never see women on the side of the road?

The answer to number one was simply, why hold it when you don't have to? HA! I guess I had that coming. and the answer to the second, was a bit more infuriating - but probably not terribly untrue - women are not out as much - they are mostly at home so they don't have as great a need to use the public facilities.

I take issue with these responses for a couple of reasons. One, EW - it is just simply unsanitary and unhygenic (is that a word?) to continue this behavior - and we are too civilized (or should be) to just bow to these human urges. And I would prefer, that if you really need to go - walk a little further away from the road, behind a tree or building, so I don't need to see you. Apparently, that is too much to ask.

Which leads me to point number two, India is still a very male driven society, and thy right to pee on the side of the road will not be bowed by any sense of decorum. Women are treated, maybe not as second class citizens, but not on the same par as men. The fact is that while the number of females in the work force does continue to increase every day, it is still greatly outweighed by the number of men in the work force. The number of women who strive for higher education so that they can get their Mrs. has not dwindled greatly.

This is in part due to the culture and societal norms there. It is the norm that once you get married that your husband and his family tell you that you no longer going to work and that your job is take care of house and home. While I see some changes in this regard - it is only in the major cities and then only on occasion. It is still a matter of pride that the husband be the major and only bread winner of the household and that the wife have her role within the house.

So it seems that until women are out of the house and telling their sons and husbands not to pee on the side of the road, or joining them on the side of the road, India will continue to be the Land of the Peeing Man.