First, the good news - my niece was born late Friday night - and thanks to technology I was able to be the first one (other than her parents) to see the beautiful Seva Gandhi - on skype. And, I am not the slightest bit biased - but she is gorgeous and I am in love.
Now the bad news - I have to leave Paris in just 3 days. I have had the most amazing time here and I cannot believe how quickly the time has gone. I have tried to soak in every moment.
After spending many weeks exploring Paris and learning its rhythms, coming back from the country made me appreciate it in wholly different way. My time in the country was wonderful - blissful as if I had been on a retreat. I feel centered and its a pleasant feeling. I arrived back on Wednesday - and I must say Jai did great on the trains despite what must be a frustrating experience for him - being leashed and not able to move freely.
We arrived back on Bastille Day to find that it had been a rainy mess thus far - so the picnics had been cancelled in lieu of meeting up at a bar. I went to the bar and met up with my friend Jodi and we left a bit later to go to Georges - which is a restaurant atop the Centre Pompidou - a place to see and be seen - it is one of the places where the staff is just plain snooty, dressed to the nines which shoes that even I think are impossible to walk in!
We enjoyed people watching over our champagne until it was time for the fireworks. They were amazing. I'm not really a fireworks person - but these seemed to me to dance in the sky by the Eiffel Tower. They went on forever and where beautiful.
Thursday, I finally visited a couple of museums I had been trying to get to and Friday I visited Belleville - it was very cool. The area is one of the most diverse that I have seen in Paris - stores with names in Korean, Chinese, Arabic and French - and a market that reminded me of markets in India or what I expect a market in Marrakesh to look like. There is also a lovely park in Belleville. I ended my walk at Pere LaChaise, a cemetary in the 20th where the likes of Chopin, Sandra Bernhardt and Jim Morrison are buried.
I arrived home and saw that my sister in law had gone into labor and so it was time to hunker down and wait....and wait....and wait... Finally at one am CET I learned that it would be at least 4 more hours so I went to bed and woke to find that my niece was here!!!! It is amazing the love you can feel for a child you have not yet held - but I know I will protect her with my life.
Saturday, Jai and I went to the flea market at St. Ouen - just outside Paris. It was pretty amazing - everything from furniture to jewelry to cheap sneakers and such were on sale. We walked around a bunch of shops and even saw Natalie Portman in one of the vintage clothing shops.
Saturday night was all about dancing. My friend Gina and I somehow decided that the two of us should split 3 bottles of wine (yes, you read that correctly) over the course of an evening and top it off with a beer at the end. At 4:20 I finally called it quits - I had an amazing night! So much fun and the dancing was great.
Sunday - I must admit, I was a little hung over - but managed to get out of the house to meet friends for brunch and then go to the Jardins of Luxembourg for a sangria afternoon - it was such a lovely way to spend a day in Paris - in the gardens, with friends with a Chopin concert in the background. I really have had so many days like that here. Just quietly lovely because of things that are ordinary in Paris.
Now, as the days wind down, I am starting to pack and I feel a tiny bit of sadness in my stomach. I wish a bit that I could slow down time but it seems gluttenous to ask for that since my time here has been more than I could ever have expected. I have truly been able to live in the moment here.
Monday, July 19, 2010
Monday, July 12, 2010
a vacation within a vacation
I feel like it has been a bit since I have last written although it has only been 5 days. On Thursday, I visited with Isabel and Nicolas - after promenading around the Pantheon and discovering yet another amazing market (pics to come shortly). Afterwards, I met up with a new friend, Jodi, a school teacher from Cali who is spending two months in Paris figuring out her own life, for a night out in the Bastille area. It was great fun - we had drinks and dinner at a cute cafe/restaurant and then went to a bar for a drink. It was there we learned a new cultural tradition - the "french kiss." I know what you are thinking, Swata, you have to know about the french kiss already.
We ran into 4 guys and a girl who were out celebrating what I think was one of the guy's birthdays. While we refused their offer to do shots, the girl came over to us and told us that it was her friend's birthday and he was a really good guy and the group wanted us to engage in a french kiss. Jodi and I looked at each other a bit dumbfounded. Shrugged our shoulders and said ok. What we realized is that they just wanted us to peck each of them on the lips. Easy enough and international controvery averted.
Phew.
Saturday, Jai and I took the train to Mont de Marsan in the Southwest of France. We met up with Nathalie and her children, Scott and Annabelle, and were picked up by Virginie to go to her home in St. Cricq. It was when we arrived that I remembered once again how lucky I am. Virginie lives with her children, Charles and Clara (totally adorable!) in what can only be described as a manor house. It was built in the 16th and 17th centuries originally and has been somewhat renovated but still has the stable house on grounds. It is like living in a pastural postcard. There are roosters and hens, cats for Jai to chase (although he does rather enjoy chasing the roosters too) and grounds galore, with a pool.
Seriously, I don't understand what I could possibly have done to have earned this. I sit outside and just breathe in the air. It is as if the real world just dissipates. You can sit in a hammock and just be. The kids love Jai - and throw cats at him for him to chase. I think he's having a great time drinking the cats' milk and eating their food (instead of his own - I guess the grass is always greener applies to animals too?). One of the cat's recently had three beautiful kittens who are still resting with their maman in one of the bathrooms.
Yesterday, I was included when the family went to see Charles take his promise in Boy Scouts. Scouts is very prominent here with Nathalie's son Max at Scout's camp for three weeks. Scouts here is also intertwined with religion so the ceremony included a full mass and then a cute ceremony where the boys who are taking their promise have to be invited into the troop by the boys in the troop by answering certain questions and completing certain tasks, like undoing knots.
Today, Annabelle, Clara and I went to visit a local castle - built in the 1700s and still lived in by descendants of the original owners. The original owners were within the court of Louis the 13th. It was so cute to see the girls entranced by the refrigerator within the walls (built into the wall) and the very small beds - because people slept in a somewhat sitting pose - a. because they feared that sleeping fully on the bed would put them in a position as they would be in death and they feared death, b. because they ate such grand meals and this was supposedly better for digestion and c. because they had such long hair and sleeping in repose made it easier for them to do their hair.
The chateau is still in use for marriage ceremonies and receptions every Saturday. It is truly quaint here and I have one more day to soak it all in before I return to Paris on Wednesday for Bastille Day.
We ran into 4 guys and a girl who were out celebrating what I think was one of the guy's birthdays. While we refused their offer to do shots, the girl came over to us and told us that it was her friend's birthday and he was a really good guy and the group wanted us to engage in a french kiss. Jodi and I looked at each other a bit dumbfounded. Shrugged our shoulders and said ok. What we realized is that they just wanted us to peck each of them on the lips. Easy enough and international controvery averted.
Phew.
Saturday, Jai and I took the train to Mont de Marsan in the Southwest of France. We met up with Nathalie and her children, Scott and Annabelle, and were picked up by Virginie to go to her home in St. Cricq. It was when we arrived that I remembered once again how lucky I am. Virginie lives with her children, Charles and Clara (totally adorable!) in what can only be described as a manor house. It was built in the 16th and 17th centuries originally and has been somewhat renovated but still has the stable house on grounds. It is like living in a pastural postcard. There are roosters and hens, cats for Jai to chase (although he does rather enjoy chasing the roosters too) and grounds galore, with a pool.
Seriously, I don't understand what I could possibly have done to have earned this. I sit outside and just breathe in the air. It is as if the real world just dissipates. You can sit in a hammock and just be. The kids love Jai - and throw cats at him for him to chase. I think he's having a great time drinking the cats' milk and eating their food (instead of his own - I guess the grass is always greener applies to animals too?). One of the cat's recently had three beautiful kittens who are still resting with their maman in one of the bathrooms.
Yesterday, I was included when the family went to see Charles take his promise in Boy Scouts. Scouts is very prominent here with Nathalie's son Max at Scout's camp for three weeks. Scouts here is also intertwined with religion so the ceremony included a full mass and then a cute ceremony where the boys who are taking their promise have to be invited into the troop by the boys in the troop by answering certain questions and completing certain tasks, like undoing knots.
Today, Annabelle, Clara and I went to visit a local castle - built in the 1700s and still lived in by descendants of the original owners. The original owners were within the court of Louis the 13th. It was so cute to see the girls entranced by the refrigerator within the walls (built into the wall) and the very small beds - because people slept in a somewhat sitting pose - a. because they feared that sleeping fully on the bed would put them in a position as they would be in death and they feared death, b. because they ate such grand meals and this was supposedly better for digestion and c. because they had such long hair and sleeping in repose made it easier for them to do their hair.
The chateau is still in use for marriage ceremonies and receptions every Saturday. It is truly quaint here and I have one more day to soak it all in before I return to Paris on Wednesday for Bastille Day.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Museums and Designer Shops
I don't know why I am so taken by all of the designer shops in this city. Today I walked down Avenue Montaigne which seems to be the center of haute couture in Paris (although it seems that many of these designers have shops elsewhere in the city). I walked past (because I could not even think about walking into these shops) Gucci, Chanel, Escada, Dolce & Gabbana and even Baby Dior - which I was tempted to go into but figured I should wait until I'm employed again. Sorry baby G. I did find a couple of outlet stores - one were I bought a very fantastic pair of very heels from Dolce and Gabbana at 2/3 off - I couldn't help it - they were calling to me. Sorry baby G. - I have an admitted shoe weakness.
The Avenue feels much like a movie set - I was waiting to catch a celebrity or two coming out of the stores (especially since it is Paris Fashion week) or to see a camera crew kicking me off the set. It has so much more charm than Beverly Hills or Fifth Avenue.
I turned off of Avenue Montaigne to Avenue du President Wilson lined with embassies and museums such as the museum of fashion (which was unfortunately closed for renovations) and made my way to the Trocadero. The Trocadero provides one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower and Champs de Mars - I really think the tower is best appreciated from a distance. Up close, you cannot appreciate its scale and grandeur.
My walks today were tinged with a bit of sadness as I realize that time has flown by and only two weeks remain in my trip. I'm currently reading a book called A Corner in the Marais by Alex Karmel. As you may recall, the Marais is where I am living and the area which he is describing in the book is very close to my first apartment so I know exactly the place he is discussing.
He says about Paris - that after visiting, leaving and then returning to Paris - he had the feeling "that coming back to Paris was coming home, and that leaving it - for what was, after all, my real home, was leaving something of myself behind as well." I have been fortunate in my life to have been able to travel a bit - but I have always had a special feeling for Paris and this phrase from Mr. Karmel is the closest I have ever gotten to describing that feeling.
The Avenue feels much like a movie set - I was waiting to catch a celebrity or two coming out of the stores (especially since it is Paris Fashion week) or to see a camera crew kicking me off the set. It has so much more charm than Beverly Hills or Fifth Avenue.
I turned off of Avenue Montaigne to Avenue du President Wilson lined with embassies and museums such as the museum of fashion (which was unfortunately closed for renovations) and made my way to the Trocadero. The Trocadero provides one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower and Champs de Mars - I really think the tower is best appreciated from a distance. Up close, you cannot appreciate its scale and grandeur.
My walks today were tinged with a bit of sadness as I realize that time has flown by and only two weeks remain in my trip. I'm currently reading a book called A Corner in the Marais by Alex Karmel. As you may recall, the Marais is where I am living and the area which he is describing in the book is very close to my first apartment so I know exactly the place he is discussing.
He says about Paris - that after visiting, leaving and then returning to Paris - he had the feeling "that coming back to Paris was coming home, and that leaving it - for what was, after all, my real home, was leaving something of myself behind as well." I have been fortunate in my life to have been able to travel a bit - but I have always had a special feeling for Paris and this phrase from Mr. Karmel is the closest I have ever gotten to describing that feeling.
Myra's visit part deux
As I told you already, Myra and Tracy returned to Paris late Sunday night. On Saturday after class, Tracy and I set out to wander around Montmartre and see Sacre Coeur - a beautiful white church about a 125 years old which sits on top of the hill.
Montmartre used to be an artist's enclave - some of the greats, Lautrec, Van Gogh and Picasso at one time each made the area his home. After walking around for a while you can see why. The windy hills, windmills and the whorehouses (which played a big role in Lautrec's work) make for a beautiful backdrop. Still located in Montmartre are some great cabarets and the Lapin Agile - which plays a role in Steve Martin's very funny play Picasso and Einstein at the Lapin Agile.
After viewing the artsy parts of the hood, Tracy and I wondered through the Cimitiere de Montmartre where Degas, Dumas and Zola among others are laid to rest. It seems so odd saying that I wandered around a cemetery, but it really makes for a pretty walk. We returned back to where we started near the Moulin Rouge - yes it still exists - and decided to take a jaunt through the Musee de l;Erotisme. It was not raunchy or seedy in the least. It contained wooden figurines, artwork, ceramics from cultures all around the world and was really informative about the role of sex and the erotic in different cultures. Interestingly, the museum outlined the ways in which sex was incorporated into the life of ancient cultures and was viewed as healthy and was supposed to be enjoyed. It was not until later times, such as those that we live in, that sex has taken on an air of seeming unseemly.
Tracy and I enjoyed a long walk home and rested before dinner at one of my favorite restaurants - the same one I took Myra to when she arrived. We had a fantabulous evening and ended it with a drink at the restaurant at Centre Pompidou which provides an amazing view of the city at night - you can see the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur and Notre Dame (among others) lit up and sparkling in the Parisian night.
It was a great way to end a visit with mes amies.
Montmartre used to be an artist's enclave - some of the greats, Lautrec, Van Gogh and Picasso at one time each made the area his home. After walking around for a while you can see why. The windy hills, windmills and the whorehouses (which played a big role in Lautrec's work) make for a beautiful backdrop. Still located in Montmartre are some great cabarets and the Lapin Agile - which plays a role in Steve Martin's very funny play Picasso and Einstein at the Lapin Agile.
After viewing the artsy parts of the hood, Tracy and I wondered through the Cimitiere de Montmartre where Degas, Dumas and Zola among others are laid to rest. It seems so odd saying that I wandered around a cemetery, but it really makes for a pretty walk. We returned back to where we started near the Moulin Rouge - yes it still exists - and decided to take a jaunt through the Musee de l;Erotisme. It was not raunchy or seedy in the least. It contained wooden figurines, artwork, ceramics from cultures all around the world and was really informative about the role of sex and the erotic in different cultures. Interestingly, the museum outlined the ways in which sex was incorporated into the life of ancient cultures and was viewed as healthy and was supposed to be enjoyed. It was not until later times, such as those that we live in, that sex has taken on an air of seeming unseemly.
Tracy and I enjoyed a long walk home and rested before dinner at one of my favorite restaurants - the same one I took Myra to when she arrived. We had a fantabulous evening and ended it with a drink at the restaurant at Centre Pompidou which provides an amazing view of the city at night - you can see the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur and Notre Dame (among others) lit up and sparkling in the Parisian night.
It was a great way to end a visit with mes amies.
Monday, July 5, 2010
A Fun Filled Fourth
This past weekend I was able to again rejoice in the marriage of my friends Nicolas and Isabel - this time around Paris. On Friday, I spent the day walking around Montparnasse in the 14th, including seeing the cemetary and enjoying a lovely bowl of moules and frites with an ice cold beer at the Academie de Biere (not really a school). The 14th is not a very tourist driven arondissement and while I don't think it is as quaint as say the 16th, it was nice to see a part of Paris that Parisians call home.
Friday night, Jai and I took the train to attend a party at Nathalie's. Parties here start at 11 - and end, at least this night, at 4. It was very very hard to get up Saturday morning - but I did, bright and early at 8 so I could come back home.
I tried to leave the party with Isabel and Nico Friday night, but unfortunately, the taxi driver refused to take Jai and the trains had of course stopped running by then. Saturday, I rode with some friends of Nico's about an hour and half outside of Paris for the wedding reception. I learned some very important things - for example - if you are invited for a lunch at 1, you don't show up any earlier than 1:30 or 2:00 since you must assume that the party throwers are not ready to receive you until then. So, showing up to the reception around 2, was not rude, but par for the course.
The reception was lovely and the ride had been quite pretty - I have to say, the French countryside I saw, was not altogether different than the countryside in the US. Since the reception was a bit in the country, I did not arrive home until after 9 - exhausted and ready to crawl into bed. Sunday morning was spent lazing in bed and reading before going to a 4th of July picnic.
A couple of the expat groups on Meet Up had organized a picnic at Bois de Boulogne. Armed with wine, water, bread, cheese and some olives, Jai and arrived at the picnic. Jai had a ball - he ran around off his leash, burrowed in the tall grasses when he was hot, rolled around in the grass and most importantly - was loved on by everyone and was able to sneak away some food from many picnickers - including a half round of blue cheese and a hot dog. I'm waiting to see what the effects of this are going to be. Let's hope that he has a steel stomache for now. I also had a lovely time meeting more folks coming to Paris to take a break from their everyday or having moved here and considering themselves lifers. It was nice to spend the Fourth surrounded by Americans.
I arrived home to tidy up since Myra and Tracy were returning to Paris from Italy for Monday. They arrived around 10:30 and we promptly set off for a very late dinner at Au Pied du Cochon (or Pig's Feet) a restaurant near the Church St. Eustache that serves food 24 hours a day.
Whilst I had a wonderful time this weekend, Monday morning arrived a bit too quickly for this vacationer.
Friday night, Jai and I took the train to attend a party at Nathalie's. Parties here start at 11 - and end, at least this night, at 4. It was very very hard to get up Saturday morning - but I did, bright and early at 8 so I could come back home.
I tried to leave the party with Isabel and Nico Friday night, but unfortunately, the taxi driver refused to take Jai and the trains had of course stopped running by then. Saturday, I rode with some friends of Nico's about an hour and half outside of Paris for the wedding reception. I learned some very important things - for example - if you are invited for a lunch at 1, you don't show up any earlier than 1:30 or 2:00 since you must assume that the party throwers are not ready to receive you until then. So, showing up to the reception around 2, was not rude, but par for the course.
The reception was lovely and the ride had been quite pretty - I have to say, the French countryside I saw, was not altogether different than the countryside in the US. Since the reception was a bit in the country, I did not arrive home until after 9 - exhausted and ready to crawl into bed. Sunday morning was spent lazing in bed and reading before going to a 4th of July picnic.
A couple of the expat groups on Meet Up had organized a picnic at Bois de Boulogne. Armed with wine, water, bread, cheese and some olives, Jai and arrived at the picnic. Jai had a ball - he ran around off his leash, burrowed in the tall grasses when he was hot, rolled around in the grass and most importantly - was loved on by everyone and was able to sneak away some food from many picnickers - including a half round of blue cheese and a hot dog. I'm waiting to see what the effects of this are going to be. Let's hope that he has a steel stomache for now. I also had a lovely time meeting more folks coming to Paris to take a break from their everyday or having moved here and considering themselves lifers. It was nice to spend the Fourth surrounded by Americans.
I arrived home to tidy up since Myra and Tracy were returning to Paris from Italy for Monday. They arrived around 10:30 and we promptly set off for a very late dinner at Au Pied du Cochon (or Pig's Feet) a restaurant near the Church St. Eustache that serves food 24 hours a day.
Whilst I had a wonderful time this weekend, Monday morning arrived a bit too quickly for this vacationer.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Paris is on SALE!
Shopping in Paris can take on many forms. There are the high end stores like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Yves St. Laurent - places that I'm too nervous to walk into. There are chic boutiques all around the city sporting up and coming and recognized but small shop designers. There are the global chain stores like H&M, Gap, Nike. And there are are consignment shops - carrying the high end items but at half or less than the designer cost.
In addition, - there are the "soldes" or sales - which until this year occur only twice a year - stores were required by the government to only put inventory on sale twice a year - in January and the end of June - for about a month each time. The economic downturn has forced the government to permit stores to do interim discounts - but these are not the soldes.
Earlier this week, on Tuesday, with Myra and Tracy in tow, we checked out a couple of the designer consignment shops - we perused through racks of Chanel, Ralph Lauren, YSL etc. and shoes - don't let me forget the shoes - yes, I know I have a problem, bags and other accessories. While we didn't do much buying, we definitely did a lot of looking - and yes, I found a pair of shoes at a steal (really, only 35E - more than 70% off) and a very very cute dress and matching coat for my niece (I'm aiming to corrupt her even before she is out of the womb because I am totally vying for the "cool aunt" title).
On Wednesday - the soldes began. Every shop has signs up for sales of 50-70% - now not everything is on sale, but there are plenty of options to peruse - in the boutiques and malls. I haven't checked to see if the haute couture items are on sale - but I doubt it and even if they were, they would still be way out of my price range.
Today, I went to the Defense area - a bit outside of Paris. It's what I would call the modern commercial area of Paris - skyscrapers and shiny buildings. It was built outside of the center of the city on purpose, so that the historic nature of Paris could be preserved. The metro and RER stations take you right into the mall - with tons of shops to peruse. I didn't find anything today, but since the sales go own for the next month - who knows what goodies may come home with me. I hope I don't have to buy a new bag - Oh well, at least it will be on solde.
In addition, - there are the "soldes" or sales - which until this year occur only twice a year - stores were required by the government to only put inventory on sale twice a year - in January and the end of June - for about a month each time. The economic downturn has forced the government to permit stores to do interim discounts - but these are not the soldes.
Earlier this week, on Tuesday, with Myra and Tracy in tow, we checked out a couple of the designer consignment shops - we perused through racks of Chanel, Ralph Lauren, YSL etc. and shoes - don't let me forget the shoes - yes, I know I have a problem, bags and other accessories. While we didn't do much buying, we definitely did a lot of looking - and yes, I found a pair of shoes at a steal (really, only 35E - more than 70% off) and a very very cute dress and matching coat for my niece (I'm aiming to corrupt her even before she is out of the womb because I am totally vying for the "cool aunt" title).
On Wednesday - the soldes began. Every shop has signs up for sales of 50-70% - now not everything is on sale, but there are plenty of options to peruse - in the boutiques and malls. I haven't checked to see if the haute couture items are on sale - but I doubt it and even if they were, they would still be way out of my price range.
Today, I went to the Defense area - a bit outside of Paris. It's what I would call the modern commercial area of Paris - skyscrapers and shiny buildings. It was built outside of the center of the city on purpose, so that the historic nature of Paris could be preserved. The metro and RER stations take you right into the mall - with tons of shops to peruse. I didn't find anything today, but since the sales go own for the next month - who knows what goodies may come home with me. I hope I don't have to buy a new bag - Oh well, at least it will be on solde.
an amazing dining experience
Today, I had a reservation at Guy Savoy - a 3 star michelin rated restaurant located in the 17th arondissment (but soon to be moving to the 6th). To say that the meal and actually the entire dining experience was fantastic - is putting it mildly.
I don't think I have ever eaten at a 3 star michelin rated restaurant (frankly, I don't know if I've eaten at a 2 star rated either) but when I started on this adventure in Paris, I promised myself to take advantage of the fine cuisine in the city - so please pardon my indulgence today.
Guy Savoy has a nondescript entrance that you could easily walk past without noticing if you didn't know what you were looking for.
We were greeted by the hostess and subsequently by two or three other waitstaff. (I went with my new friend Vanessa, who is also a recovering lawyer). As we were seated, a sommelier brought up a drink cart of aperitifs for our choice. Champagne of course!!
While we sat sipping our champagne and eating small toast points with foie gras on toothpicks, we perused the menu. I had barely started looking at the menu when the waitstaff brought a small stool to the table - and picked up my handbag and placed it on the stool - I kid you not, they made sure my bag was not on the floor. All I could think was, where am I? It just seemed unreal.
As we decided on our options, we were brought another amuse bouche from the chef, a cool soup in a bowl that resembled a double sided espresso cup - and on the other side a brilliant tuna tartar in a small pastry.
Then came the bread cart so we could choose from the various types of bread they had available today - with options on the table for butter with salt and unsalted butter. I was informed that the seaweed bread I chose would be better with salted butter. A few minutes after we buttered our bread - one of the waitstaff took the butter dish and replaced it with one that had not been use - I have never experienced anything like that before (and may never again) - but it was definitely an insight into the way the other half lives.
Next, we arrived a tiny and incredibly sweet plate of baby peas on a puree of same with a few drops of veal stock and excellent olive oil, a poached quail's egg that the waiter teasingly slit open with the point of his knife and a light scattering of mustard cress. It was delightful.
Vanessa and I both ordered one of the specialities of the house as our entree (appetizer) - artichoke and black truffle soup - it was sublime - and made even more so by being served with mushroom brioche - fresh and warm, buttered with truffle butter - which by the way, the waiters buttered for you.
We asked the waiter to choose our glasses of wine and he suggested a wonderful fruity yet substantive pinot noir - it complemented both my pigeon dish and Vanessa's chicken really well. This was followed by the cheese cart - we chose five different cheeses assisted by the waiter responsible for the cheeses (seriously). Even though we shared a dessert, it was not just the strawberry - I don't even know what to call it - it and served in a glass dish, on top of which was fine strawberry sorbet, with cubes of cooked strawberries around the side - I don't think I ever really appreciated the strawberry before, and a bit of chocolate ganache (we agreed that any more would have been too much chocolate), but also the earl grey sorbet and a tiny, delicious sample of a subtle apple tart ("tarte fine", on a very thin puff pastry, with apple sauce and then very thin apple slices on top, lots of butter and sugar involved in proportion to the apple - but it was fanatasic. We were also offered ice creams and marshmallows and options from a dessert cart.
This for me, was a dining experience like no other. There was not a thing I could have wanted that was not offered to me - including offering to call us a taxi, however after a 3 hour lunch, a walk was in order.
I apologize for the numerous pictures (and I was quite embarrassed as I took them) but to see the food is the only way to do the entire experience justice.
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