After leaving Luang Prabang we made our way by bus (AC and quite comfortable) to Vang Vieng - known as the hard core party town of Laos. Most backpackers spend their days tubing down the river, with the tubing operators pulling the tubes in for temporary stops at bars on the riverside. Nights are spent sitting in restaurants and bars watching endless reruns of Friends, Family Guy and the Simpsons while enjoying countless Beerlao (a very good local beer) and in some places adding a side of marijuana or opium. Some restaurants list these on the menu, others offer “Happy” pizzas or meals.
If this isn’t your cup of tea (and it wasn’t mine), you can spend hours biking around the countryside exploring the caves and lagoons, relaxing with a massage and enjoying the endless reruns of Friends.
We stayed only a day in VV and then took a local bus (no AC and a little less comfortable) to Ventiene, the capital of Laos. Honestly, although the guidebooks suggest you can spend several days there, I thought that a day and a half was just right. Vientiene is a sleepy capital city and reminded me of Phnom Penh. The time we had there allowed us to take in the major sights, including walking along the riverside which splits Laos and Thailand, the Victory Monument reminiscent of the Arc de Triomphe, Phat Thra Luang (which required a 4 km walk/bike ride or tuk tuk to get to) - but it is the most important temple in Laos. Historic but not my favorite city in Laos.
Friday, October 7, 2011
Monday, October 3, 2011
Luang Prabang - Part 2 - Leeches
Luang Prabang isn’t just a city steeped in religion. I think what makes people fall in love with it - is its chill vibe. It oozes charm with its restaurants, bars and shops set in a French Colonial atmosphere. You can easily spend whole days just strolling down its streets, stopping in at a Wat occasionally, talking to a monk, nipping into a shop and then for a coffee or a glass of wine or a BeerLao (very good local beer) or treating yourself to a massage (I have become a foot massage convert), all before going to the night market where you can have a heap of food for dinner at the awesome price of $4.50 (including meat or fish, about 10 different sides and a beer).
But Luang Prabang does not stop there, as I found out. You can also spend a day with the elephants - learning how to mount and ride them astride their head and bathe them in the river, or you can ride an elephant and then spend half a day kayaking or as I did, visit the Tat See waterfalls and then spend half a day kayaking (and only falling in once!). As great as the kayaking was, the next day was even better. We hiked up and around the Tat Kuang Si waterfalls. The hike took over two hours - at times steep and at other times slippery (I only fell once!). Much of it was quite muddy because of the heavy rains that have been falling. After we climbed for about an hour, we crossed over the top of the falls - the sight was breathtaking.
It was as we peered over the top of the falls that we noticed them - leeches - on our feet. They had apparently latched on while we were hiking in the woods. They can be pulled off with minimal pain but have to be flung off your fingers since they latch on wherever they can. I was fortunate to have caught them shortly after they tagged me. Another experience to add to the books!
But Luang Prabang does not stop there, as I found out. You can also spend a day with the elephants - learning how to mount and ride them astride their head and bathe them in the river, or you can ride an elephant and then spend half a day kayaking or as I did, visit the Tat See waterfalls and then spend half a day kayaking (and only falling in once!). As great as the kayaking was, the next day was even better. We hiked up and around the Tat Kuang Si waterfalls. The hike took over two hours - at times steep and at other times slippery (I only fell once!). Much of it was quite muddy because of the heavy rains that have been falling. After we climbed for about an hour, we crossed over the top of the falls - the sight was breathtaking.
It was as we peered over the top of the falls that we noticed them - leeches - on our feet. They had apparently latched on while we were hiking in the woods. They can be pulled off with minimal pain but have to be flung off your fingers since they latch on wherever they can. I was fortunate to have caught them shortly after they tagged me. Another experience to add to the books!
Luang Prabang - Part 1
The travel books tell you that Luang Prabang becomes many travelers favorite city in Southeast Asia and I can understand why. It has definitely become one of my favorites in the 2 and 1/2 days I spent there.
Luang Prabang is set along the Mekong and the whole city is deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site as being one of the best preserved cities in SEA. It seems to be the capital of Buddhism in Laos with the numerous temples and monasteries sprinkled around the city. Monks are seen everywhere in their saffron robes and umbrellas to protect them from the sun.
Speaking of monks, in Luang Prabang, the monks still collect alms each morning from the townspeople. I participated in this ritual my first morning. I awoke before dawn and walked to the main street. As soon as I got there, I was accosted by some local women selling sticky rice or plates of bananas that could be given to the monks. I stood back awhile since I wasn’t sure I wanted to participate. The rules are strict and I didn’t want to do anything that would offend. Our tour guide suggested that it would be fine and we went over the rules again.
Here’s how it goes - you sit on the side of the street with your offering. Men can stand or sit with legs behind them (feet are considered very low and must not be shown or allowed in the direction of monks), and women kneel while making the offering. As the hundreds of monks (there were at least 2-300) walked past, I took a bit of the sticky rice (it’s already cooked) and put some in each monk‘s bowl. The monks varied in age from elderly men to boys who looked to be no more than 10 years old. The food they collect is shared among them at mealtimes, which seems fair since by the time the 150th monk came by, I was out of rice!
It was such a cool experience to participate in this ritual. Seeing the monks coming toward you in a line - a sea of saffron - and then passing down the streets back to the monastery.
Luang Prabang is set along the Mekong and the whole city is deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site as being one of the best preserved cities in SEA. It seems to be the capital of Buddhism in Laos with the numerous temples and monasteries sprinkled around the city. Monks are seen everywhere in their saffron robes and umbrellas to protect them from the sun.
Speaking of monks, in Luang Prabang, the monks still collect alms each morning from the townspeople. I participated in this ritual my first morning. I awoke before dawn and walked to the main street. As soon as I got there, I was accosted by some local women selling sticky rice or plates of bananas that could be given to the monks. I stood back awhile since I wasn’t sure I wanted to participate. The rules are strict and I didn’t want to do anything that would offend. Our tour guide suggested that it would be fine and we went over the rules again.
Here’s how it goes - you sit on the side of the street with your offering. Men can stand or sit with legs behind them (feet are considered very low and must not be shown or allowed in the direction of monks), and women kneel while making the offering. As the hundreds of monks (there were at least 2-300) walked past, I took a bit of the sticky rice (it’s already cooked) and put some in each monk‘s bowl. The monks varied in age from elderly men to boys who looked to be no more than 10 years old. The food they collect is shared among them at mealtimes, which seems fair since by the time the 150th monk came by, I was out of rice!
It was such a cool experience to participate in this ritual. Seeing the monks coming toward you in a line - a sea of saffron - and then passing down the streets back to the monastery.
Saturday, October 1, 2011
Floating down the Mekong
In order to come to Luang Prabang, where I've been the last two days, we had to leave Huaixay by slow boat and traveled down river to Pak Beng, stopped for the night and then carried on to LP.
I had thought that spending two days on the river just floating along would not be all that enjoyable and that the days would pass very slowly. Boy, was I wrong. In fact, floating down river was great. The days passed really quickly and the scenery surrounding us was magnificent. I think that five years from now, Laos will be the new Prague (or what Prague was in the late 80s) - a hip vacation location. The backpackers have already discovered it - it is time for everyone else.
I will be posting pics shortly, but I am not exaggerating when I say that the trees and mountains surrounding us made me think of the great Northwest in the US or perhaps what Ireland must look like during the days when it earns its name, the Emerald Isle. Alongside the trees and mountains, we watched water buffalo bathing alongside the river's edge and saw children jumping into the river with naked abandon.
While traveling downstream, we were able to stop at two villages on the way. In both villages, most of the adults were off in the fields and the children were either being watched by grandparents, neighbors or the older siblings. They live in mostly wooden huts with the odd brick building (owned by a villager who works in the city - LP probably). Next to the huts were smaller buildings to store the rice and corn they cook, while chickens, ducks and pigs (as well as cats and dogs) roamed around.
Being in the villages brings to bear that Laos is one of the least developed countries in the region and many of its villages are isolated - but life here is refreshingly simple. Life here is languid and it allows you to slow down a notch - definitely enough to enjoy the scenery as you float down a river. Ahh, this is the life.
I had thought that spending two days on the river just floating along would not be all that enjoyable and that the days would pass very slowly. Boy, was I wrong. In fact, floating down river was great. The days passed really quickly and the scenery surrounding us was magnificent. I think that five years from now, Laos will be the new Prague (or what Prague was in the late 80s) - a hip vacation location. The backpackers have already discovered it - it is time for everyone else.
I will be posting pics shortly, but I am not exaggerating when I say that the trees and mountains surrounding us made me think of the great Northwest in the US or perhaps what Ireland must look like during the days when it earns its name, the Emerald Isle. Alongside the trees and mountains, we watched water buffalo bathing alongside the river's edge and saw children jumping into the river with naked abandon.
While traveling downstream, we were able to stop at two villages on the way. In both villages, most of the adults were off in the fields and the children were either being watched by grandparents, neighbors or the older siblings. They live in mostly wooden huts with the odd brick building (owned by a villager who works in the city - LP probably). Next to the huts were smaller buildings to store the rice and corn they cook, while chickens, ducks and pigs (as well as cats and dogs) roamed around.
Being in the villages brings to bear that Laos is one of the least developed countries in the region and many of its villages are isolated - but life here is refreshingly simple. Life here is languid and it allows you to slow down a notch - definitely enough to enjoy the scenery as you float down a river. Ahh, this is the life.
Thursday, September 29, 2011
Entering Laos - or Where I gave myself a concussion
To get to Laos from Chaing Mai required two buses - and took about 5 and 1/2 hrs. The journey was pretty easy and getting across the border was hassle free. We entered into Laos at a town called Houayxay in the early afternoon.
Houayxay is a very small village which people use as a base to do things such as the Gibbon Experience or to stay overnight to get on the boats to travel down the Mekong to Luang Prabang (as we are). I took a walk around town and discovered that there really is nothing else.
Now, here’s a safety share for any of my clumsy friends. Even in a very sleepy village, you should pay attention to where you are walking or you too can end up sporting a lovely bump on your head (with a small Harry Potter like scar) from walking into a bamboo pole (used to hold up the awning of a local outdoor cafe). Apparently, you really can’t take me anywhere. Well, not without adult supervision. Needless to say, while my travel-mates were enjoying the two bars in town and meeting other travelers, I was passed out in my room recovering from what I can only describe as a slight concussion. Sigh.
Houayxay is a very small village which people use as a base to do things such as the Gibbon Experience or to stay overnight to get on the boats to travel down the Mekong to Luang Prabang (as we are). I took a walk around town and discovered that there really is nothing else.
Now, here’s a safety share for any of my clumsy friends. Even in a very sleepy village, you should pay attention to where you are walking or you too can end up sporting a lovely bump on your head (with a small Harry Potter like scar) from walking into a bamboo pole (used to hold up the awning of a local outdoor cafe). Apparently, you really can’t take me anywhere. Well, not without adult supervision. Needless to say, while my travel-mates were enjoying the two bars in town and meeting other travelers, I was passed out in my room recovering from what I can only describe as a slight concussion. Sigh.
Back to Thailand
After leaving Cambodia, I arrived back in Bangkok and realized that during the trip, I had already come through Bangkok's airport five times. Along with feeling excited about continuing the trip, I was feeling apprehensive about joining my tour. I was going to be spending the next 3 and 1/2 weeks with a group of people traveling in Laos and Vietnam in some very basic conditions (after spending a year enjoying some very nonbasic hotels and resorts in India). I joined up with my tour group on Sunday morning and found that aside from me, there were only 3 other people on the tour until we get to Vietnam. Two native Australians (although I use that term loosely since one of them is a world traveler and has now sold all of her belonging to spend the rest of her life traveling) and one native UKer who has been living in Oz for the last 5 years. Clearly, I will need to do my part to represent for the Americans. We had one day in Bangkok and then took the overnight train to Chaing Mai.
Chaing Mai is a great town in the north of Thailand. It is a great spot to go trekking, mountain biking, and the Gibbon Experience (you can sign up to spend days and nights in tree housing helping to save the Gibbons and do some ziplining). The train was pretty nice, even the bunks (a bit more comfortable than those in India - better bedding) but late - so we didn't arrive in Chaing Mai until early afternoon. So with only a few hours to see Chaing Mai, we trekked around and town visited a couple of temples in town. You can see that the town of Chaing Mai has been built up around the tourist industry with loads of guest hoses, travel agencies and coffee shops and restaurants. I can see why people use it as a base for other activities in and around the area.
My favorite part of the day was our visit to the Mountain Temple - Wat Phra That Doi Sthep. It was on top of a mountain (as the name would suggest) and you could only reach it after climbing 300 steps. The temple itself was beautiful. Built in the 14th century, it has two large golden stupas. We arrived just after sunset and saw some great views of the city below.
Chaing Mai is a great town in the north of Thailand. It is a great spot to go trekking, mountain biking, and the Gibbon Experience (you can sign up to spend days and nights in tree housing helping to save the Gibbons and do some ziplining). The train was pretty nice, even the bunks (a bit more comfortable than those in India - better bedding) but late - so we didn't arrive in Chaing Mai until early afternoon. So with only a few hours to see Chaing Mai, we trekked around and town visited a couple of temples in town. You can see that the town of Chaing Mai has been built up around the tourist industry with loads of guest hoses, travel agencies and coffee shops and restaurants. I can see why people use it as a base for other activities in and around the area.
My favorite part of the day was our visit to the Mountain Temple - Wat Phra That Doi Sthep. It was on top of a mountain (as the name would suggest) and you could only reach it after climbing 300 steps. The temple itself was beautiful. Built in the 14th century, it has two large golden stupas. We arrived just after sunset and saw some great views of the city below.
Remembering Cambodia
It’s Wednesday and I am spending the day floating down the Mekong River, through Laos. I figured it was about tmie I updated the blog - starting with Angkor.
What can I say about Angkor that isn't better expressed by pictures. It really is one of those places where a picture is worth a thousand words. My friend George and I spent 3 and half days in Angkor, two and half of those wandering around the temples (by which time we were templed out) and a day wandering around the markets and shops of Siem Reap.
The temples in Angkor truly are breathtaking in their size, scope magnitude and detail. My first siting was coming from the airport towards our hotel and seeing Angkor Wat. It appeared as though this ancient city was rising up from the past. (ok, I know it sounds melodramatic, but it really did). We spent the next couple of days seeing the biggies - Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, the Bayonne, Banthei Srai (although farther away from the main site - definitely worthy of a visit) and Ta Prohm were definite highlights.
I wish I had the ability to express in words how impressive and amazing these temples and old ruins are, but I think more talented writers than I struggle with putting that into words - so I can only refer you to my pictures.
From Angkor, we went to Kep, known as the Riviera of Cambodia. A sleepy seaside town known for its crabs. And they were DELICIOUS. They definitely rival those I’ve had in Baltimore. Sweet and prepared in a wonderful white pepper sauce. (I know, blasphemy from a Baltimorean). Since it rained quite a bit while we there, we weren’t able to take advantage of the great pool and not so great beaches of Kep. While walking about town, we did see alot of hammocks. In fact, hammocks seem to be quite popular in all of Cambodia. In Kep, there were rows and rows of them in thatched roof open air buildings. And while, I not sure about why, I can only assume that the hammocks are available for rent by the hour for snoozing. Hammocks are so popular, that we saw quite a few tuk-tuks with hammocks inside for their proprietors to sleep in while not ferrying customers. It sees like a wonderful way to wile away any hazy and hot afternoons.
Although in some respects Cambodia sees like the poor relations of Thailand, with most of its population engaged in agriculture, it has a beautiful landscape - mostly fields and not lots of trees (at least the parts we drove through) and I found the people to be quite welcoming.
What can I say about Angkor that isn't better expressed by pictures. It really is one of those places where a picture is worth a thousand words. My friend George and I spent 3 and half days in Angkor, two and half of those wandering around the temples (by which time we were templed out) and a day wandering around the markets and shops of Siem Reap.
The temples in Angkor truly are breathtaking in their size, scope magnitude and detail. My first siting was coming from the airport towards our hotel and seeing Angkor Wat. It appeared as though this ancient city was rising up from the past. (ok, I know it sounds melodramatic, but it really did). We spent the next couple of days seeing the biggies - Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, the Bayonne, Banthei Srai (although farther away from the main site - definitely worthy of a visit) and Ta Prohm were definite highlights.
I wish I had the ability to express in words how impressive and amazing these temples and old ruins are, but I think more talented writers than I struggle with putting that into words - so I can only refer you to my pictures.
From Angkor, we went to Kep, known as the Riviera of Cambodia. A sleepy seaside town known for its crabs. And they were DELICIOUS. They definitely rival those I’ve had in Baltimore. Sweet and prepared in a wonderful white pepper sauce. (I know, blasphemy from a Baltimorean). Since it rained quite a bit while we there, we weren’t able to take advantage of the great pool and not so great beaches of Kep. While walking about town, we did see alot of hammocks. In fact, hammocks seem to be quite popular in all of Cambodia. In Kep, there were rows and rows of them in thatched roof open air buildings. And while, I not sure about why, I can only assume that the hammocks are available for rent by the hour for snoozing. Hammocks are so popular, that we saw quite a few tuk-tuks with hammocks inside for their proprietors to sleep in while not ferrying customers. It sees like a wonderful way to wile away any hazy and hot afternoons.
Although in some respects Cambodia sees like the poor relations of Thailand, with most of its population engaged in agriculture, it has a beautiful landscape - mostly fields and not lots of trees (at least the parts we drove through) and I found the people to be quite welcoming.
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